米其林指南在中国为何“水土不平”

发布时间:2020-09-28 03:43 点击数:

In the early 1930s came the ratings via a star hierarchy that developed into the highly competitive formula for which the guide is perhaps best known today.

源于推动汽车旅行成于星级打分系统

Local reaction to the first Michelin Beijing guide in 2019 was almost entirely negative even accusing it of “cultural superiority” partly because none of the top three awardees serve traditional northern food.

“The French Will Not Understand” —— A Brief History of Michelin Guide in China

绝不意外在这座中国美食之都米其林被争议淹没。“法国人不懂中国食物”“这是一份贵食指南不是美食指南”种种品评纷歧而足。

It is the third year of the world-renown food guide landing in Guangzhou the fifth year in China and the thirteenth year in Asia since its first Tokyo version in 2007.

从一开始人们就对米其林指南成为世界相识中国美食的窗口而满怀期待。然而人们发现在2016年上海成为首个米其林公布星级指南的都会时上榜的约100家餐厅中唯一一家三星餐厅唐阁并非沪菜餐厅而是粤菜餐厅。

从2007年公布首份东京篇算起这份享誉世界的美食指南登陆亚洲已经13年。五年前米其林指南正式进入中国而且在三年前推出广州版。

一开始这些旅游手册是免费分发的内容包罗舆图换轮胎指南沿途的机修店和旅店清单。首轮印发的35000册大获乐成后比利时、德国、葡萄牙和西班牙的版本也相继推出。1920年米其林引入餐厅榜单很快它开始派出自己的秘密视察家。

为何米其林来华后总出现“水土不平”?一些人倾向归因于文化差异。究竟大多数中国消费者在欧洲和其他西方国家旅游时仍会信任米其林推荐的餐厅。

In 2018 Michelin announced Guangzhou stars for the first time. 63 restaurants were listed none of which got two or three stars.  Four out of the eight restaurants which got one star are in luxury hotels and expensive.

Why Michelin appears to be so ignorant of the Chinese cuisines? Some are inclined to blame the cultural differences for it. After all most Chinese users still trust Michelin for recommendations when travelling in Europe and other Western countries.

At first distributed for free it included maps a how-to on changing tyres and lists of mechanics and hotels along the route. The first run of 35000 copies was such a success that guides for Belgium Germany Portugal and Spain followed. Michelin introduced restaurant listings in 1920. Soon after it started sending out undercover inspectors.

两家餐厅获得二星

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